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We uphold high standards in quality and for social and environmental practices. For instance, we have long pushed to expand the Kimberley Process definition of “conflict free” diamonds to protect human rights and the environment. When sourcing our diamonds, we go above and beyond the Kimberley Process by asking more from our suppliers, including through the Diamond Source Warranty Protocol.
We also maintain our high standards through leading approaches to diamond traceability. We source the majority of our rough diamonds from five countries—Botswana, Canada, Namibia, Russia and South Africa—and in Fiscal Year 2020, we were able to trace 100%* of our rough diamonds to known mines or responsible suppliers with a limited number of known mines. In keeping with our commitment to responsible sourcing, we provide provenance information—region or countries of origin—for every newly sourced, individually registered diamond (of .18 carats and larger) that we set. In 2020, Tiffany & Co. launched the Diamond Craft Journey, becoming the first global luxury jeweller to disclose the countries where these stones are crafted. The journey enables us to share with our clients where each such diamond was cut, polished, graded and set—a pioneering achievement in diamond traceability and transparency.
As a leader in diamond traceability, we don’t just adhere to industry standards—we lead by example. Over the past 15 years, we have implemented a strategy that gives us a strong chain-of-custody process for our diamonds, in part because we have direct oversight of our diamond cutting and polishing workshops.
We believe our responsible sourcing practices can help promote the protection of human rights, fair and safe labour practices, protection of the environment and ethical business conduct. We also believe that these practices can help create economic opportunity for communities along the diamond supply chain.
*See the Report of Independent Accountants
Since 2005, we have applied industry-leading practices such as Earthworks’ No Dirty Gold Golden Rules criteria for socially and environmentally responsible gold mining. We also have robust protocols on conflict minerals to minimise the potential for financing armed conflict and human rights abuses through our purchase of gold.
*See the Report of Independent Accountants
We use strict protocols for sourcing the approximately 60 varieties of coloured gemstones we use in our jewellery, and we are helping set industry standards that account for the realities of the supply chain while seeking to increase transparency and traceability. In 2021, we created a Coloured Gemstone and Pearl Source Warranty Protocol that guides our work with suppliers so that we can continue to advance traceability and engage in key sourcing regions to improve social and environmental impacts. In some countries, where we have concerns about transparency and human rights, we have made the decision not to source prized stones, including lapis from Afghanistan and rubies from Myanmar.
We also collaborate to create standards and share best practices to promote responsible gemstone supply chains. In 2015, we joined with others in the luxury jewellery industry and coloured gemstone mining sector to form the Coloured Gemstone Working Group. In 2021, this group launched the Gemstones and Jewellery Community Platform, an online resource for stakeholders across the value chain to share knowledge, due diligence tools, training materials and other resources in an effort to create a more transparent and sustainable industry. Through industry partnerships and philanthropy, Tiffany and The Tiffany & Co. Foundation also support a range of stakeholders, from miners and traders to cutters and polishers, to help the coloured gemstone sector support sustainable livelihoods in the many places people depend on it.
We carefully consider how materials are procured and crafted, and we pay special attention to living species. We use guidance on species sustainability, including for our leathers, from the International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) Red List and the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) Appendices. We don’t use certain materials, including coral and ivory, in our products because we believe they cannot be sourced responsibly. We extend this approach beyond our products by taking a public stand on species protection, in select cases, and by supporting conservation efforts through strategic philanthropy.
As a company, we have built long-standing relationships with many of our suppliers, helping ensure we source materials from those who align with our values and policies. We acquire most of our metals directly from mines we know and from recycled sources. We also source the majority of our diamonds as rough diamonds, directly from mines or from suppliers with a limited number of known mines.
To promote change beyond our own operations, we work with our suppliers, employees, the industry at large, non-governmental organisations (NGOs) and other stakeholders to create positive change and lend our expertise through multi-stakeholder initiatives to encourage more responsible mining. To this end, we helped launch the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) in 2006. Additionally, we were the first jeweller to apply Earthworks’ No Dirty Gold Golden Rules beginning in 2005 and, during the same year, we became a founding member of the Responsible Jewellery Council.
Complementing the practices in our own supply chain, The Tiffany & Co. Foundation has also provided approximately USD $6 million in grants to organisations helping to establish standards and credible certification systems to advance responsible practices in the artisanal and small-scale mining sector for gold, diamonds and coloured gemstones.
Within our Company, we strive to protect human rights. We have developed a new Human Rights Policy that builds on existing Tiffany & Co. policies and articulates a unified vision for our approach to managing and promoting human rights for all. Our policy is aligned with the UN Guiding Principles on Business & Human Rights and other international laws and standards. This approach includes our focus on responsible sourcing practices and other requirements set forth in the Tiffany & Co. Supplier Code of Conduct, our conflict minerals programme and more.
Beyond our business, collaboration is one of our most effective tools in creating a more responsible mining industry. For example, we helped to launch the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance (IRMA) in 2006 and continue to push the diamond industry to expand the Kimberley Process definition of “conflict free” to better safeguard human rights. For the second time, in recognition for our efforts, we are proud to have earned a “Strong” ranking for our responsible sourcing practices by Human Rights Watch in its 2020 “Sparkling Jewels, Opaque Supply Chains” report—the only luxury jeweller to have received this recognition.
Our founder, Charles Lewis Tiffany, set the stage for this beginning in 1848, when Tiffany hired artisans to make our jewellery in house at a workshop above the Broadway store in New York City. By the late 1800s, Tiffany had also set up silversmith and diamond cutting and polishing operations. By bringing jewellery manufacturing within the walls of our Company, Tiffany set an important precedent that has allowed us to maintain our high standards throughout the production process.
Today, we have nearly 1,500 in-house artisans. We manufacture approximately 60% of our jewellery in Tiffany facilities in New York, Kentucky and Rhode Island, and polish and perform select assembly work in the Dominican Republic. In addition, in recent years, an average of approximately 75% (by volume) of the polished diamonds used in the Company’s jewellery that are .18 carats and larger and individually registered has been produced from rough diamonds that the Company has purchased. We are also proud to bring the Diamond Craft Journey to our clients, which enables us to share with them the country where each such diamond was cut, polished, graded and set. This kind of pioneering transparency demonstrates the care we take to manage our jewellery from sourcing to production.
We also strive to contribute in positive ways to the communities and local economies in which we operate by creating jobs, training and promoting workers and establishing a location-specific living wage programme for employees in our workshops in developing countries. By operating our own cutting and polishing workshops and jewellery manufacturing facilities, we are also able to better ensure our jewellery is crafted in a safe and healthy workplace.
Our responsible sourcing efforts extend this ethos across our supply chain. Through the Social and Environmental Accountability Programme, which helps us uphold our expectations with our suppliers, we work with our key suppliers to help them improve how they manage, respect and protect human and labour rights as well as environmental performance.
For melee diamonds, Tiffany has taken the extra step of instructing our suppliers to stop buying Russian rough stones on our behalf and to separate Russian and non-Russian melee moving forward.